Francine Ballard's Rantings of the Accessory-Obsessed.
This suite of four mini dresses paired with black shorts appeared about halfway through the Dior Spring 2013 show.
Here’s the thing. The yellow and lavender ones are lovely, but the pale mint green and pink ones are clearly less successful and the show would have benefited from some editing here. -RS (Images via Vogue.com)
Raf Simons showed his first pret-a-porter collection for Dior for Spring 2013 this past week in Paris. It was super highly anticipated and while it did gain wonderful reviews, and there are many, many looks and ideas here that I love… for me it was not as intuitively excellent as what he showed for couture last June.
Simons opened the show with looks in black, jackets with full peplums that swayed gently over skinny trousers, and variations in dresses that were essentially modified double breasted jackets. The silhouettes were a nod to some of Dior’s original shapes and did well revisited here. The show moved into some lovely dresses in embellished fabrics that photographs will not do justice.
Some of the black dresses in the second half of the show were my favorites- the best version of that hi-low hem I’ve seen appeared towards the end, as well as some ankle length tulle overlays on beaded sheaths that were ladylike but very fresh. The looks Simons showed with mini dresses or asymmetrical draped tops over black shorts were some of my favorite.
My one real issue with the collection was color. There were color combinations in certain looks that just blatantly did not work and the palette of the show overall was not focused enough. Fortunately, the shoes (the black pointy heels go on my wishlist asap) were awesome enough to balance everything out. -RS (Images via Vogue.com)
Its clear that Raf Simons as designer in charge at Christian Dior is a brilliant decision. His first collection for Dior, Fall 2012 Couture, was hailed as one of the best not only of the season, but possibly ever in the history of all fashion in all of time. Not to exaggerate or anything.
But let us look back a moment at Bill Gaytten’s last collection for the house, Resort 2013. Gaytten’s took the reins and did quite well in the limbo between Galliano and Simons. And while perhaps he was not the one to take the role of creative director genius at Dior, he is still talented and should be recognized for his work. So here are a few looks that Stylesight posted recently. I’ll take the one in red at far right please. -RS
More from Raf Simons’ first show for Dior- the Christian Dior Couture Fall 2012 collection.
Black and soft pink were punctuated by acid yellow, fuchsia and cobalt blue to great effect. The voluminous citron colored skirt shown with a sheer long-sleeve top will be popping up on red carpets absolutely everwhere. These are clothes for the women who really shop for couture and for stars who can wear such strong clothes- Tilda Swinton and Emma Stone both come to mind.
I loved the soft full-length gowns that closed the show, beaded on the front in one color and pattern, and in the back with another. A brilliant way to give a nod to the past, while looking to the future of the brand as well. Bravo Raf! -RS (Images via WWD)
Raf Simons announced his departure from Jil Sander after the Fall 2012 ready-to-wear show, much to the disappointment and consternation of pretty much everyone. But then came the news that he would be installed as designer at Christian Dior, which had been rather without specific direction since the drama of John Galliano several seasons ago. That was some comfort to us all, and now reviewing Simons’ first show for Dior (and a couture one at that!) I am happy to praise him for a beautiful show, and Arnault for a wonderful HR decision.
Aspects of the Christian Dior Couture Fall 2012 show were a but reminiscent of Raf’s last collection at Jil Sander- the floral installation, the color palette, some of the shapes, and references to 1950’s mode. It felt like a very natural continuation of the Jil Sander collection, perhaps revised and updated, a bit less kooky and more pretty but with the same modern excellence with which the designer imbues all his pieces.
The show opened with a black cigarette trouser and black jacket, shaped as a nod to the silhouette Dior himself reinvigorated in 1948 with the New Look. This combination repeated a few times throughout the show, trouser with either a bustier and trailing skirt on top, or a sort of extremely mini-dress (sometimes embellished) worn atop the pant. The look was a perfect balance of young/fresh, and traditional/polished.
The “Dior Red” 3/4 length coat was stunning, especially when paired with a minimalist metallic belt. Swing coats and ballerina-length dresses were done in a gorgeous satin shibori dye, and many of the shapes showcased a sort of up-lifted bralette cup that was neither for the faint of heart or large of bust. -RS (Images via WWD)
A quick fashion round-up from Cannes with some gorgeous stars in flawless gowns:
Nicely done ladies! -RS (Images via T&L)
Starting 12 May through 23 September, a new exhibit called “Stars in Dior” will launch at the Dior museum in Granville (the coastal Normandy town in which Christian Dior was raised).
Prior to opening his couture house, Dior designed many, many costumes for stars of the silver screen such as Elizabeth Taylor and Marlene Dietrich. This exhibit celebrates his work, as well as gowns worn in films more recently by actresses such as Marion Cotillard and Penelope Cruz. The accompanying show book, to be published by Rizzoli, will be available in the States in September. (Images via WWD)
Now… let’s see about a trip to Northern France this summer! -RS
Trend Alert: Handbags are Bigger Than Ever Before!
Leave it to Dior to erect a 20 foot tall purse to guard the construction site of their 57th Street store. We’ll be seeing it there until December when the store re-opens for biz.
[Via Chic Report]
TUNNEL VISION: CHRISTIAN DIOR DOES CONTACTS
File under: more stuff we don’t need. I’m all for putting myself in debt in the name of fashion. And the gold sparkles in the lenses are neat, but this is just extreme fashion whoring.
Posted by: Mikey Goodmark